Walking in the Footsteps of Agatha Christie in Torquay
Ralph Blackburn, a Westminster correspondent, recently embarked on a fascinating journey to Torquay, tracing the footsteps of the legendary Queen of Crime, Agatha Christie. This immersive experience reveals the profound influence of the English Riviera on Christie's iconic novels, offering a unique blend of literary history and scenic exploration.
The Mysterious Disappearance and Its Theories
One hundred years ago, Agatha Christie made headlines with her mysterious disappearance. After a heated argument with her husband, Colonel Archibald Christie, who had requested a divorce due to his affair with Nancy Neele, Christie left her Berkshire home. She drove away, abandoned her car near Guildford in Surrey, and checked into the Old Swan Hotel in Harrogate under the pseudonym "Teresa Neele." For eleven days, she remained incognito, sparking national hysteria and a massive volunteer search involving 15,000 people, which led to her husband's arrest.
Tour guide Graham Kerr of English Riviera Walking Tours explains three prevailing theories about this event during a walk around Christie's hometown of Torquay. The first suggests genuine amnesia, the second points to a nervous breakdown, and the third, which Kerr leans towards, posits that Christie intended to punish her husband for his infidelity. This intriguing backstory sets the stage for understanding the author's complex life and work.
Torquay's Influence on Christie's Novels
The two-and-a-half-hour walking tour around Torquay is a must for Christie enthusiasts, as Kerr meticulously details how the locale inspired her stories. Following the Napoleonic wars, the English upper class shifted their holidays from France to the South West, bringing a wealth of characters to Torquay. Christie and her friends would stroll along the pier, observing and eavesdropping on conversations, gathering material for her plots.
Kerr highlights specific inspirations, such as the tidal Burgh Island, which served as the setting for the best-selling crime novel And Then There Were None. Additionally, the picturesque village of Cockington is believed to be the basis for Miss Marple's home, St Mary Mead. Christie's work as a pharmacist during both world wars provided her with detailed knowledge of poisons, often used in her murder mysteries. Moreover, a moustached Belgian gendarme named Jacques Joseph Hamoir, evacuated to Torquay during World War I, is thought to have inspired the character of Hercule Poirot.
The Cary Arms and Spa Experience
This tour is part of a special Agatha Christie-themed package offered by the Cary Arms and Spa, a luxurious hotel overlooking Babbacombe Bay. For a two-night stay starting at £135 per person per night, guests can enjoy the walking tour, a traditional Devon cream tea—with clotted cream applied first on the scone—and a three-course 1920s-themed dinner at the hotel's restaurant.
The Cary Arms exudes old-fashioned charm, with turndown service and morning newspaper deliveries. Its atmospheric setting, known as the "Inn on the Beach," feels like a perfect backdrop for a Christie murder mystery. Guests can opt for beach huts, offering breathtaking views of Babbacombe Bay, where red sandstone cliffs shimmer and waves gently lap the shore. The hotel's spa, pool, steam room, and sauna, all overlooking the bay, provide a serene escape, ideal for relaxing with a copy of Dead Man's Folly, included in the package.
Exploring Greenway and Beyond
The Cary Arms can arrange visits to Greenway, Christie's holiday home, now a National Trust property. Admission costs £18 for adults, £9 for children, and £45 for a family of five. Christie described Greenway as the "loveliest place in the world," and this grand Victorian house set in woods above the River Dart is a delightful spot to spend a sunny afternoon. It houses 12,000 items and books related to the author, including a mural left by US soldiers stationed there before D-Day during World War II.
Down the hill, the boathouse is the scene of the murder in Dead Man's Folly. This picturesque location along the Dart River also has a rich military history, having been used in the 16th century to land Spanish prisoners of war captured by Sir Francis Drake and later by Americans practicing landings for D-Day in 1944.
Additional Day Trips and Local Delights
For those seeking further exploration, Totnes is an excellent day trip accessible by train or car. Its narrow streets are lined with independent shops, and the town once had its own currency, the Totnes Pound, to promote local commerce. The Bull Inn, a gastropub at the top of the high street, offers sustainable British cuisine, with highlights like crispy cauliflower with tahini and sesame sauce, and buttery leeks cooked with smoked onion.
Whether you're drawn to spectacular views, rich history, or delicious local food, Torquay and the Devon Coast provide an unforgettable experience. Ralph Blackburn's journey, hosted by the Cary Arms as part of their Agatha Christie package, showcases how this region continues to captivate visitors with its literary legacy and natural beauty.
