Finding Solitude in a Pembrokeshire Coastal Cottage
In bustling Britain, true peace and seclusion are rare treasures, but a cozy Welsh cottage with only wandering wildlife for company provides the perfect escape. James Ruddy recounts a winter adventure to the dramatic West Wales coast, where a bright red cottage door welcomed him into a world of tranquillity.
A Winter Journey to Wales
Despite a challenging five-hour drive through sleet and snow, the trip to Pwll Cottage proved immensely rewarding. Upon arrival, the picture-perfect hideaway promised days of serene isolation, blending old-world warmth with modern amenities. As snow showers intensified, the landscape transformed into a glistening Arctic scene, leaving the travellers marvelling at the sudden change.
The lounge offered cosy comfort, a refuge from the wintry conditions outside. On the first day, a brief respite from the heaviest snow allowed a cautious drive along icy country lanes to Laugharne, a charming village on the Taf estuary. This destination has attracted notable figures like former President Jimmy Carter and celebrities such as Mick Jagger, drawn by its medieval castle ruins and Georgian streets overlooking salt marshes.
Exploring Dylan Thomas's Legacy
Laugharne is best known as the home of poet Dylan Thomas, whose works like Under Milk Wood were inspired by the local landscape. Amid snow-groaning clouds, the visitors explored key sites, including Thomas's recreated writing shed, the historic Brown's Hotel bar, and his final residence, The Boathouse. A stop at a village store revealed the area's tidal flooding risks, though with a reassuring note that cars rarely float away.
Returning to Pwll Cottage, meaning "pool" in Welsh, a pause in Marros hamlet allowed admiration of St Lawrence's Church, with its 15th-century tower built for defence during local uprisings. Today, English tourists are warmly welcomed, exemplified by a delightful Welsh Produce Hamper featuring scrumptious Welsh cakes and Bara Brith awaiting at the cottage.
Embracing the Winter Retreat
Snowfall cocooned the cottage for two days, turning the car into a snowball and roads into skating rinks. Plans to hike the Pembrokeshire Coast Path or visit Marros Sands were postponed, but the cottage offered its own joys. Foxes wandered across snow-blanketed lawns, a robin called for nibbles, and games of table tennis and darts provided entertainment.
Hearty home-cooked meals in the kitchen-diner, warmed by a roaring log burner and instant heating, added to the comfort. Evenings were spent with music, reading, and TV by a gas stove, followed by restful sleeps in spacious bedrooms. On the final night, a toast with Brecon Beacons Penderyn single malt under starry skies celebrated the "home from home" experience.
Reflections and Future Returns
Departing under light rain with melted snow, the journey back to the Midlands was tinged with regret for not staying longer in this peaceful haven. The travellers vowed to return, having rediscovered a forgotten way of life and embodied the Welsh proverb: Where there is peace there is life.
Fact File: Pwll Cottage is bookable through Coastal Cottages of Pembrokeshire, a family-run company with over 400 properties. Options range from traditional stone cottages to unique homes, with concierge services for welcome packages and experiences. A week's stay for up to six starts from £430, including savings. For bookings, visit their website or call 01437 765 765.
